It was November 2017. Chris and I chose nothing less than Italy to celebrate our wedding anniversary. I had no better choice for the occasion. Three days walking the scenic roads of Piedmont.
We would wake up early, eager to want to enjoy every minute of daylight but in the tranquility of wanting to enjoy the region that created the concept of http://spectra-dynamics.com/?author=12 slow food, consequently check out here slow travel.
He had no error, we came for breakfast and were soon greeted with a nice Buongiorno. In the Italian style possible the first question of the day was: Cappuccino, espresso or mocacchino? And the most pleasant way to start another day in Piedmont, sat at a table overlooking the vineyards and between sips of our coffee stuck out our heads the beautiful landscape of vines Piedmont. Those surrounding us on all sides.
Even the morning we put the car on the road and regardless of our round mileage landscape did not change. The funniest of all this? I did not get tired even a minute to contemplate it all.
It seemed like I was living in a romantic film classification.
The car went meandering mountains. Sometimes aimlessly without direction we were lost by small roads of Piedmont. Sometimes with a destination named in the GPS. But never with time limiting our tour. We would discover the landscape in small doses, because even though I have said that it is always the same, every new curve always in deparávamos with a surprise.
If we were down, it felt as if a wave were engulfing us. We looked up and a wall of vines so close our eyes we could see the last bunches of grapes that would be harvested to make honey wine late harvest.
Did not need much time to be on top of the mountain, I confess that the view is much prettier. Here the feeling was completely different, I was the proud owner of the world with that so unique landscape on my feet.
Like the sea, the vineyards of Piedmont are lost of view and go as far as your imagination and your heart will allow. Unlike when we're down there, we can see a single color, from above you see a whole color palette. Green, yellow, orange, red and so on is the announcement that we are in the fall.
While I owned the world, with all the beauty of my eyes I understand why I have not found the perfect route described in any website. Because it simply does not exist! Any route would be perfect!
Piedmont does not allow great tourist attractions, because the magic of the place is right on the road, in the countryside. Choose some wineries, canteens or as they call it there, to conduct a tasting of Barolo and Barbaresco are the main wines you will find there. The Barolo considered one of the most noble wines of Italy.
Tastings are usually unpaid, as mass tourism has not invaded this small piece of Italy is still the place still very popular with lovers of sacred drink. The tasting is only the tip walk home to get you out of there with a box of wine.
Our choices were:
This was the one who did a tour, all because we ask in advance. A unique and very fast ride. The Moccagatta is a family winery that produces about 65,000 bottles of wine per year and provides 9 types of wines. Yes, We tasted them all and enjoyed the exclusivity to beat a good chat with the winemaker we Athenaeum.
Moccagatta was our first winery in Piedmont, took the opportunity to begin to understand the region and the wines. It was a great experience, with the wine and the service.
Montaribaldi was indication of the owner of our hotel, we got there and were soon surprised by the location of the tasting: a deck over the vineyards and the restless view of Piemonte. Very kind the clerk asked us if we had made a reservation, with a mischievous smile on his face not respond, so she said we could instead make the tasting, but unfortunately would not be possible to complete tasting.
He has offered us a menu with more than 10 options and should choose some for our tasting. Who does reserve tasting all options and still gets more attention from one of the attendants. But it was excellent and if she did not mention that we would not understand, anyway indicate the reservation.
I had read about this canteen and had already made a reservation. The location is very complicated, especially since there are three wineries with the same name in the region. After much running we got to the location, indicate that place the address on GPS instead of the canteen name.
We stopped the car and the reward was there: the view! As always.
Quickly directed us to the room and began our tasting, plus 6 types by then we were already beginning to understand the complex and intense flavor of Barolo noble, had understood that my palate is identified more with the Alba Barbera and so I was I am finding myself "the wine entendedora" with each new tasting.
Fontanafredda is much more than a canteen, has a hotel, restaurant and megastore's own winery wines and also offers wines from other. Again we arrived without reservation, which did not seem a problem. The store is really great and here is every man for himself, look for one that you want to enjoy and ask for someone.
I wanted to try something new and then left the Moscato. It is a dessert wine, I love. Moscato is also a type of wine of the region and as there was still no proven so I went that route. Italian beer to find in this store, very worthwhile to pass by.
Besides the wines the place is very beautiful. It has a park that can be explored on your own.
Among the wineries and the roads also we chose some cities to stop and explore.
Typical Italian village that seduces any human being. Cross bows and walk on the stone streets would be a serenade of love, but also the local delights you with apertadinhas streets and colorful houses.
Neive rose in my concept when I won the stomach. The most charming restaurant in town, with the red color of foliage that goes up the entire wall of the place attracts attention of all who pass by. I called mine and will draw your make a reservation of Aromatario to enjoy one of the best meals of your trip.
The noble Barolo is actually the wine of origin, but what we find here is the main city of the region. That of course, could not have another name: Barolo.
The city is rather a free but truth be told, there is only one interesting thing here: the Wine Museum. If you got this far too likely to be rather a drink connoisseur and even your knowledge or interest is very small I recommend you visit the museum.
With a very light and interesting approach, you will realize an immersion in the wine world. We understand the important role of nature and man for the final product out with quality. Wine is present in the history, cuisine, art, film, music, and this is all very well explored in the museum.
The location of the museum is an old castle, break you visit the rooms of the castle and learn a little more about the history of the family that lived there.
Finally the tour could not end otherwise it was not with a tasting of Barolo wine. We finish the tour at Enoteca of Barolo.
The type of city that is impossible to miss, with only one street the city of Barbaresco draws attention for its wine cellar. Among many in this region, because one would draw so much attention?
The simple fact that it is located inside a church! Have you visited one of this? So there are reasons why you have to take a Fugidinha to Barbaresco to know the Enoteca Regionale in Barbaresco.
We were in Piedmont in late October that it happens when the famous fair of truffles. The city of Alba is known for white truffles, say it is one of the world's best. And there we were in the midst of every event, it was cool to live it all, but I confess that the event hurt a little city tour. I met super little town.
What I took from Alba was the unforgettable dinner at Osteria dei Sognatori. They do not get reservation and Paul, the owner is emphatic: arrive at 19:00 and expects the restaurant open for you to enter. A simple restaurant with homemade and delicious pasta.
We have already spoken of the canteens of the cities is now the turn of the castles. That's right, to top it off all the region also hides real jewels. Not really hide so well, after all they are always at the top of the mountains framing the most beautiful pictures of the castle vineyards. I say hiding because it is not always so easy to get there if you do not know the name of the place to add to your GPS.
So here follows two of which we know:
Castello di Govone
This castle is part of the Royal Castles Savoia family, and if you are thinking of purchasing the Royal Card (I told about it here) Know that the Govone is included in the package.
Even before arriving at the castle I knew something was very picturesque saved at the top of that hill. The small streets of the villages forced to close the car's rearview not shave them on the wall. Curvinhas revealing true doll houses. We parked the car and continue on the walk, we climb a few flights of stairs and realized I was with all the Piedmont region on my feet (again). If it was not the typical haze that region the horizon would be even more beautiful, but do not complain. The panoramic view seemed to wage a real duel of beauties. On one side a beautiful village with vines in the background with autumn colors and the other a Royal Castle before me.
Entry to the castle is allowed, but arrived at lunchtime and so I had to settle with its exterior and admit it: I was content!
Castello di Grinzane Cavour
The Castello di Ginzane loses nothing to the previous one, in fact the arrival until it is even more amazing. There is no town or village between the castle and vines, as we approaching it seems to come and reign among the vines.
From above could not be different: the same view as always but always looks so different.
It's funny how we do not get used to this landscape and it seems that every time we are faced with this spectacle you lose your breath and can say every time as if it were the first such contact: OUR THAT BEAUTIFUL!
How to know the Piedmont region
I point out a unique way to experience this region: drive!
There is no train that goes through all this and sincerely close an excursion to know this place would be a sin. You need time, your time. To stop anytime, anywhere.
Where to stay in Piedmont
It is not difficult to find a hotel that has a view of the landscape, after almost all the hotels are surrounded by vines. Escape to stay within the villages that can cause you have not seen and can greatly hinder the issue to park the car next to your hotel.
Choose a rural hotel and enjoy the beginning of the landscape at the end of your day. I chose the Cai gave Curra and I could not have been happier in my choice. The hotel has only 8 rooms, all with a view. The service was excellent, since it is the owner himself who served us from beginning to end of our stay. He provided all the tips and answered all our questions.
I will not even go in the category cleaning because this is basic! I felt at home and very welcome.
If it is possible to improve this post, Piedmont has one of the most beautiful sunsets I've ever seen! I was privileged to attend two days this spectacle that made me lose my breath. Tired to take pictures, put the camera in automatic to record one show every new second.
The trip was unforgettable! If you liked these landscapes, certainly will also be enchanted by the Douro in Portugal. Read here about our experience there.
Our journey continued through Turin, track here what to do in the city.