Le Havre, Normandy's largest city is located 190 kilometers from Paris. It was devastated in World War II, rebuilt in 18 years and became the most modern city of the old continent. In 2015 the city center has won the title of Heritage of Humanity by UNESCO. In addition to the Oscar Niemeyer curves, Le Havre has other strong links with Brazil.
Le Havre Urban Plan
I could not get the post by another subject than the urban plan. Understanding it can make a difference to your experience and pre-judgment on a city that at first glance seems no color, no curves and no movement.
Although the First World War has left its marks in Le Havre, it was in World War II that the population saw 85% of the city center being ruined by numerous bombings.
The French city that was destroyed over this period.
The need to re-house much of the population brought Auguste Perret as the leader of an amazing revitalization plan. They were 18 years old to relocate about ten thousand families.
Perret made sure to think about the people who had lost everything and developed a millimeter strategic plan and cozy.
100 buildings have been built in the Structural Classicism style. made concrete, a material that would allow flexibility in construction as well as a reduced cost without losing quality. Today, the buildings are part of Le Havre identity.
Knowing the inside of Perret apartment is among the must-see attractions of the city. It's like going back in time and feel all the care that the architect and his team had a population that only left them the hope of beginning. The lighting, the sound, the built environment and even the furniture was studied for that situation always seeking the comfort of a decent start.
Visits to the apartment Witness happen in small groups accompanied by a guide, I recommend you make reserve from the site.
The triangle of Le Havre
The city perfectly planned, has three main points that served as guidance for the people who lost everything, including family ties with the hometown, which was in ruins. Perret made sure to keep these points in the same location:
Hotel de Ville
The city gained a new, more modern dress. The straight lines of classicism structural style did not please at first, but little by little the place was turning into an imposing building complete with a steeple where you can have the best view of the city.
But this is only possible if you are a licensed tourist guide, entry to the site is allowed only by authorized persons. But go forward, it is the best place to understand the ingenuity of Auguste Perret and also a great opportunity to watch a beautiful sunset.
When looking from the outside is difficult to imagine that this building is even a church, but the cross on the door confirms this. 110 meters high, soaring in a lighthouse format is a tribute to the city that has a strong connection with the sea. Those arriving in Le Havre by the sea does not deny that it is really a beacon, since the church is the first element to emerge for sailors.
symbolism full, I found another one. I admit, that last touched me the most. The Saint Joseph church also refers to a candle. This time, is a tribute to those who died in the city, this candle, which is always on the cross at the top of the tower.
Finally, the last point of the city is Ocean Gate. The Arch of Triumph of Le Havre, situated at the beginning of Paris Avenue. The gateway to the city, avenue that seeks to open broad prospects between the city and the sea.
It was in 2017 that the city won another monument that has everything to be one of Le Havre icons - the Catene Containers, arrived to celebrate the 500th anniversary of the city and has everything to never get out of there. A monument made with direct containers coming from the port of Le Havre, the second largest port in France. Defying the law of physics, the monument consists of heavy and rectilinear objects, gives movement and form two arches where the biggest one is 29 meters high.
Not by Auguste Perret lives of Le Havre architecture, our Oscar Niemeyer also left its signature in the city. The Unmistakable forms architect are set in the heart of the city. Le Volcan, is known as the cultural building that houses the theater of the city. Right next to find the "vulcãozinho" as it is affectionately called modern city library.
Perret and his genius to forgive me, but it was the library that surprised me most. Oscar Niemeyer also thought of everything, even in the way that would give his work of art seen from above - a dove, symbol of peace, for a city that lived so many conflicts.
I apologize also to the artist who was Oscar Niemeyer, but even I was surprised with the interior of the library. Modern, beautiful, technology, warm and full of people. Full of children, adults, parents, students, ladies and gentlemen, couples and even those who have not read. I was impressed with the amount of people enjoying and taking advantage of that incr-í-ble space
Really take the time out of your day to come and meet the library.
Brazil in Le Havre
I said that the connection between Brazil and Le Havre went far beyond Oscar Niemeyer. This connection has everything to do with the sea and the harbor. Today the city is one of the leading Brazilian coffee cake entrance doors on the old continent grounds.
Still at sea, the connection this time is for the nautical sports: sailing. The city is the starting point of a major transatlantic races in the world: the Transat Jacques VabreAfter a few days on the high seas the end point of this trial is in the city of Salvador.
Não é atoa que existam tantos brasileiros morando por lá. 😉
Muma, Museum of Modern Art André Malraux is one of the main museums when it comes to impressionist art, second only to the Musée d'Orsay in Paris. Finding right in front of the sea, all coated glass, the feeling is that we are facing a huge work of art.
Se estiver por lá no final da tarde, ainda tem a chance de apreciar a olho nú um verdadeiro céu impressionista. Dizem que lá, na Normandia, a mistura do rosa, azul bebê e até mesmo o laranja é onde você encontra o original céu impressionista. 😉
Where to eat
Remember that any restaurant tip in France comes the hint "key": book in advance.
A very local restaurant. In a hidden alley, where within just found French. We were greeted by the chief, who was walking around the room just when we entered, without extending the well sought our reservation and pointed in the table. With a wide variety of menus closed, I noticed something that was all: fish house! The asterisk and the caption on the menu footer delivered: Typical house dish (could only).
I did not think twice. Perfect choice for a cold night, the dish was a delight. Fish with cream and potatoes, served in an extremely hot cumbuca freshly baked to close the dish, a delicious gratin cheese layer.
The choice was very happy, as well as the entrance was also divine. poached egg with endive, also gratin. For cheese lovers, creamy food, go without fear of being happy.
A traditional restaurant in the city of Le Havre, located in front of the Le Volcan. While we're both the connection between the city and the sea, nothing fairer than proving fresh and well locations. Night of seafood.
Le Grignot eu indico se você tiver tempo e paciência. O restaurante é grande e o atendimento é lento. Mas se quer frutos do mar, dizem que esse é o melhor. 😉
I assumed I'm fan of mussels and also gave roquefort overjoyed to find that the restaurant joined two products that are from another planet so delicious. A combination somewhat dubious but married well. Be prepared to eat a lot of mussels, the portion is very well served.
Entry took a chance on lobster, which luckily and husband tutorial let not fly in the next table. Task completed successfully!
SPA Hotel Vent d'Oest - locating within the urban plan of Auguste Perret, which means you'll be staying in a traditional house of Le Havre. Once you are inside the urban plan, you are in the city center. Indico leave the car in the car and do everything on foot.
Embora os quartos não sejam grandes, é extremamente aconchegante. Um café da manhã delicioso e que merece todo o meu respeito por me servir ovos mexidos em porções individuais e quentinhas. 😉
Normandy by car
Le Havre was a pleasant surprise. The city is perfect to serve as a base for some tours in the area such as Etretat, Palais Benedictine and Honfleur. Wait posts complete each of these destinations.
Before arriving in Le Havre spent two days exploring Rouen, I told here: Things to Do in Rouen.